Like the Bockstein, the 2017 Riesling Saarburger Rausch Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is enormously concentrated on the nose, where fine aromas intermingle with dried apricots, peaches, notes of quince, lime and lemon chutney and even fig mustard.

Concentrated and velvety on the viscous palate, this is a pretty sweet but highly refined and salty-piquant Auslese with an enormously long and concentrated finish. This is a wine to be served in 20 or 30 years, unless you like this bigger but balanced style at this early age. The wine seems to be less racy because the acidity is already integrated and provides structure for the sweet, stewed fruit, but it comes back on the finish and reveals the piquancy and precision of an Eiswein with botrytis. Tasted at the domain in April 2019. Drink through 2070.