The 2014 Mouton-Rothschild was closed at first but as it transpires, this First Growth is just toying with you. Initially quite understated, it responds to aeration like a young child peeking from around a corner and then running out, waving its hands. It suddenly hits you with gorgeous black cherries, bilberry, cedar and wilted rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky smooth entry. This is utterly seductive: a wine without a hair out of place. The precision and focus are beguiling. It will require 5 to 7 years to absorb the 100% new oak, then it will be an utterly delicious "cerebral" First Growth that is destined to give two or three decades of pleasure.